Espar Easy Star Timer C to F
Espar Heater Installation- DIY Guide
Disclaimer- I am not a professional. I am a moderately skilled DIYer. Technical wiring diagrams are not my stiff suit. My Espar works peachy. I'one thousand satisfied that information technology'due south a clean, professional installation. My DIY post may contain errors. Use at your ain risk. CO (carbon monoxide) leaks can be mortiferous- specially in small spaces. No cutting corners on your installation!
I recently finished installation of the Espar Airtronic D2 diesel heater. On the list of things that make VanLife and van adventures more than crawly, existence warm and dry out is near the superlative of the listing.
There is a ton of information nigh the Espar heaters so I won't
Espar Airtronic D2
duplicate any technical data here. Espar (Eberspacher), is a big company that has been around for decades and has made thousands of these diesel fired heaters for both road and marine utilise (as well every bit coolant heaters and other products). Marine diesel fuel heaters of old were evil-smelling and sooty. Modern diesel heaters are cleaner electronically controlled units.
Acknowledgements, Thank you, and Resources
I would not take been able to complete the installation without the immense online noesis base of those DIYers who came before me. A huge thank you to all those who shared their knowledge and experience. In detail those on the Sprinter Forum, SprinterVanUSA, LeTonkinois Varnish, Traipsing About, and Sprintervandiaries. All smashing online resources.
Listed below are some of the resource I used for my installation:
(All links open up in a new window)
- Sprinter Source– THE Sprinter Forum. THE definitive resource for all Sprinter data. Every topic you can imagine has been covered. Forum is a bit clunky in terms of search, but still a neat resource. Play with search terms for all-time results.
- GeorgeRa build thread– George has an excellent detailed build thread of his 144 DIY Sprinter. He's shared his cognition freely and was kind enough to answer a couple of my questions. His template for brackets saved me a ton of time and fabricated for a professional person installation.
- GeorgeRa's Google pics– Excellent photos from GeorgeRas Espar installation with a printable bracket template. Thank you George!
- SprinterVanUSA.com– An fantabulous DIY build blog. DieselFumes (the author), lists Amazon products for many obscure products. He has written well-nigh many technical aspects of DIY sprinters and has a passion for technical details.
- LeTonkinois Varnish– A Uk Marine company with excellent resources on the Eberspacher including troubleshooting, and deciphering the controllers and wiring.
- Sprintervandiaries.com– A van build and vanlife travel blog. Cracking wiring tips for the Like shooting fish in a barrel Start Select. Saved me some frustration.
- Traipsingabout.com– A smashing blog about van life, their build, and simplifying life to pursue the stuff that matters to you.
- The Espar Underseat Installation build thread– More than you ever wanted to know.
- Wiring Help with Espar– Sprinter Forum Thread. Includes helpful information about the Loftier Altitude Kit.
- Espar of Michigan Tech Manuals
- DiamondSea'southward Espar Installation– A different take on installation from the Sprinter Forum.
What size furnace should you get?
The Espar D2 is smaller than a shoebox but cranks out 7,500 BTU at it's max setting. (For comparison, we accept a 40K BTU furnace in our one,000 square foot home in snow country at half-dozen,300′ height).The furnace itself is similar to a modern household furnace. Information technology is a sealed system with both the intake and combustion (frazzle) air exterior the van.
Here is a link for household furnace BTU sizing based on climate (sorry US map only). Unless you alive in a very cold winter climate or at high distance, the D2 should exist sufficient for most people. Of class a van is a large metal box with lots of conductive rut loss, and so insulating your van is a key part of keeping warm (and cool). A 170″ wheelbase Sprinter van is less than 120 square feet.
Putting in a furnace that is too big for your climate may cause unwanted maintenance problems- bigger is not always better. Diesel fired furnaces similar the Espar need to run on max regularly to keep from sooting upwardly the combustion chamber. (Diesel is not similar propane in this regard). That said, if you are in a brutally cold climate or live twelvemonth circular at high elevation, the D4 may exist worth considering.
So How Hard is information technology to Install?
The million dollar question! The Espar installation is not very difficult for a moderately skilled DIYer. 95% of the frustration comes from Espar's technical manuals, and the way they sell their kits. The Airtronics heater install kit comes with a ton of miscellaneous parts to adapt the heater to many different installations. I ended upward with a box of unused parts.
The other source of frustration is that the wiring harness supplied by Espar is used for many of their products (and various combinations of their products with a half dozen or so different controllers). There is little clarity in Espar's instructions for those unfamiliar with reading technical wiring diagrams. You'll stop up with a agglomeration of unused wires depending on your choice of controller. The whole installation process could be fabricated hours shorter with simplified instructions written for dumbo people like me.
At the most basic level the Espar installation consists of:
- Mounting the heater to your van (drilling a few holes and bolting it to the floor)
- Running the wiring harness to where your thermostat/controller will be mounted
- Hooking up air intake and exhaust outside van
- Hooking upward the hot air duct within van
- Connecting your fuel line and pump wiring to the diesel fuel tank
- Hooking up your thermostat/controller
- Connecting to ability
Espar desperately needs a new technical writer. Even finding technical manuals on their web page is overly complicated.
Mounting the heater
Mounted in the passenger seat base
The passenger seat base of operations is a great place to install the Espar. The passenger seat base is perhaps the well-nigh mutual place to install the Espar heater in a Sprinter van. Many install the Espar near the rear cycle wells as well. The passenger seat base of operations is also unremarkably used for storage, auxiliary batteries, subwoofers, safes, etc. For those with hinge seat adapters, the passenger seat base becomes mostly inaccessible. My passenger seat base holds a stereo amp too as the Espar.
The first affair that I did was to run the power and controller wiring through the wiring chase that runs between the front seats (sorry no pics). I used an electrical fishing wire to pull the wires, only a piece of potent wire poked through would piece of work as well.
Completed installation. Air duct rotates as well!
Some people bring power to the heater from the house battery through the wire chase and install the Espar fuse block in the passenger seat base. Either way works.
In most of the 2007+ Sprinters, the Espar D2 is an like shooting fish in a barrel mountain to the flooring of the seat base. On my 2014, there was a perfect spot in the floor. Seat base design has changed slightly from year to year- do a reality check on your floor and seat base.
The gasket on the bottom of the heater makes a neat template to trace out your mountain location and pigsty locations. Espar'south kit includes basics and lock washers.
(Click for full sized pics)
Slotted seat access console
If you lot are using a swivel seat base, there may non exist enough air flow through the seat for the fan. Without enough ventilation through the base, the heater may overheat and close downwardly. Hein (from the Sprinter forum), has an Ebay store (impactproducts) with a diversity of well designed Sprinter products. I am using his slotted side admission panel to ensure adequate air flow through the seat base.
Power Supply
The power supply for the D2 requires a five amp and 20 amp fuse (5 amp for the controller and xx amp for the heater). My power harness had iv wires of which the D2 uses 2.
Espar includes a fuse cake with their kit. The Espar power wire is also quite long. I was able to run the Espar ability wires straight to my house bombardment fuse block (Blue Ocean Systems 12 position fuse holder) and utilize my ain fuse cake.
Again, either way works. It was easier and cleaner in my installation to keep all the van fuses in a single location, and cut a few steps from the install.
Fuel Supply
The fuel supply, fuel pump, and fuel pump power supply may be the almost complicated attribute of the passenger seat installation. For 2007+ Sprinters, accessing the auxiliary fuel tap is easy.
The challenge is passing the fuel line and fuel pump power over the exhaust and drive shaft to the fuel tank. I followed GeorgeRas excellent example and bracket system.
I'm a visual learner. Below are xl+ pics detailing how I made the brackets and routed the fuel pump and fuel line over the rut shield and drive shaft.
(Click pics for full size images- many have markup notes).
With the passenger seat base of operations installation you'll need to laissez passer the fuel line and fuel pump electric line over the exhaust heat shield and drive shaft. Luckily at that place is a pretty clear path with some attachment points.
You'll find boosted pics and a printable version of GeorgeRas bracket template on his Google album.
Exhaust and intake
The air intake sits nicely on GeorgeRa'south bracket detailed to a higher place.
I made an early on decision to road the exhaust abroad from the sliding door. When we are parked, our primary admission is through the slider. I did not want to accept diesel smell or exhaust well-nigh my main admission door. Many people run the exhaust backward to the passenger side wheel well, or merely route information technology to the exterior most the passenger front door. All are decent options, but I'1000 happy with my conclusion to route the exhaust to the opposite side of the van. Standing near the exhaust, you can odor a scrap of diesel fuel frazzle (which confirmed my decision to do a more complicated exhaust path).
The maximum length of the (24mm) exhaust is 2 meters (6'half-dozen″). I was able to run the exhaust to the drivers side (nether the drivers door) with approximately 5'8″ of frazzle tubing.
From everything I've read, installing the muffler immediately is the right way to do this installation. Evidently the heater sounds similar a small jet engine without the muffler. The noise of the heater outside the van is a low whoosh with the muffler.
Wiring the controller
Wiring the controller is one of the sources of frustration with installing the heater. Espar's documentation is…lacking. Those used to reading technical wiring diagrams accept an easier time with the thermostat installation.
I accidentally ordered the Easy Start Select controller with my kit from Heatso.com. I installed the Easy Start Select and quickly realized that I wanted the diagnostic functions of the 801 controller. I hooked up the Piece of cake Get-go for a few days, then swapped to the 801.
There are at least six different Espar controllers with slightly different wiring (function of the frustration since there isn't 1 straightforward answer to hooking upwards your controller). The other frustration is that my Espar wiring harness contained ten wires, of which you'll need iii for the Piece of cake Offset Select, and six for the 801 controller.
The 801 controller has the ability to show error codes and make it possible for a field repair of the heater. The 801 controller also has a temp sensor on the controller.
Easy Kickoff Select
The Piece of cake Start Select is nearly plug and play into the High Altitude Kit for running the heater above four,600′ (1400 meters)- with a catch . It also only requires three wires for installation. It works fine, but doesn't include diagnostic functions. The harness for the Easy Start plugs correct into the Loftier Altitude controller harness- but you lot'd have to locate the distance sensor within near eighteen″ of the Easy Showtime, so it's plug and play function may not work if you need to put your altitude sensor elsewhere.
Easy Kickoff Select
In addition to the three wires above, the Easy Start also requires Brown/White and Grey/Blood-red wires to exist continued. I missed this on the starting time attempt and got an error bulletin of — (three dashes) on the controller.
Espar Wiring Harnesses
You'll notice in the above pic that I used my ain wire connectors instead of the Espar Harness. The supplied Espar wire harnesses are fine. They too only include the exact number of terminals needed! Mess up a crimp and your installation comes to a halt. Definitely one of the frustrations with the Espar kit. Everyone botches a crimp occasionally. Information technology'due south a cheap function to supply a few extra.
After struggling with the Espar terminals (I crushed a terminal, and so dropped i into a crack in five minutes), I scrapped them and used my own connectors. I buy them by the 100-pack on Amazon. Mess upwards a crimp, cut it off and go again. Lose 10 seconds of your fourth dimension. Mess upwards an Espar final, and it's a trip to the electronics supply store. The Espar harnesses are nice and meaty. Easy to get the crimps right working at a well lit workbench. Harder in the existent world of working in a van.
I invested in a squeamish Ancor insulated wire curling– about $60 on Amazon. Makes perfect crimps 98% of the time. (For comparison, I own three other crimpers, and the Ancor makes the most consistently strong crimps on insulated connectors. I always give them a firm yank to exam).
Electricity doesn't intendance what connector yous use as long as the connection is solid and properly sized. All my connections were hidden behind walls. Not pretty, but they all piece of work and install quickly (and disconnect easily). That said, if y'all are a whiz with crimping and particular work, utilise the Espar harnesses.
801 Controller
The 801 Controller provides the same basic part equally the Piece of cake Starting time, only includes the ability to read fault codes from the Espar heater. This is a key part, and may let y'all to diagnose and repair the heater on the road.
On a side note- I checked the fault codes on my 801 out of curiosity. The heater was working fine, only displayed two mistake codes stored in retention. They were both correct. The kickoff one was Lawmaking 48- Fuel pump open circuit, and the 2d one was Lawmaking 62 open diagnostic circuit. During installation I plugged in the heater without the fuel pump hooked up (to check my thermostat wiring). Later I had the blueish/white wire asunder while wiring in the High Altitude Kit. The heater detected both faults, and would accept lead to an like shooting fish in a barrel fix.
The 801 controller uses 6 wires, but the wiring has seven wires. The chocolate-brown wire coming from the wiring harness is non used for the 801 controller (only is with the Easy Start, go figure). As with the Easy Outset, I scrapped the Espar harness, cutting their terminals off, and installed my own.
I too needed to extend the Espar wiring harness past about 12″ to get to my desired wall location. I made my own ugly but functional packet and crimped my own connectors.
Changing from Celsius to Fahrenheit (or vice versa)
I bought my Espar D2 kit from Heatso.com in London (with two day shipping to California). The Heatso D2 kit was about $850 with muffler, and everything yous need for a basic installation. The but wrinkle was that the 801 controller came preset for Celsius.
To change from Celsius to Fahrenheit (or vice versa)-
1- Disconnect the power from the 801 controller
2- Concord down the upwardly and down buttons
3- Reconnect ability to the controller
4- On the brandish yous will see n + a number from 0-7 (mine was n0)
5- Utilise the up arrow to dial the number up to one of the Fahrenheit settings (see beneath)
6- Press the Heat button to save the setting
7- Voila!
Use the to a higher place instructions to change from Fahrenheit to Celsius as well.
Notation- The process to a higher place also changes the heater max run time. You can fix information technology for continuous, one-hour, or 10-hour. Newer controllers also have a four-60 minutes setting. The continuous run setting has the potential to burn a lot of fuel if y'all forget it on. I chose the 10-hr setting in example I forgot it on and parked the van for a week.
The information below was copied from the LeTonkinois Varnish website. There are a number of max time settings.
To modify the duration setting
Disconnect the Digi-controller from power. Press and hold downwardly the "UP" and "DOWN" keys. Re-apply power to the unit.
The display volition read n0, n1, n2, n3, n4 or n5, release both keys.
Repeatedly printing the "Upward" or "DOWN" button until the brandish reads the required setting as follows:
Modes for controller with half-dozen presets:
n0 deg C, continuous run,n1 deg F, continuous run
n2 deg C, i hour duration,n3 deg F, 1 hour duration
n4 deg C, x hr elapsing,n5 deg F, 10 hour elapsing (Factory preset)
Modes for controller with eight presets:
n0 degC, continuous run fourth dimension,n4 degF, continuous run time
n1 degC, 1 60 minutes run fourth dimension,n5 degF, ane 60 minutes run fourth dimension
n2 degC, 4 hr run time,n6 degF, 4 hour run time
n3 degC, 10 hour run time,n7 degF, 10 hour run time (Factory preset)
To store the new setting press the "Heat" key and the brandish will return to ambient temperature.
High Altitude Sensor
Newer Espar heaters accept a high altitude accessory. The High Altitude Kit (HAK) is basically a barometric pressure sensor that leans out delivery of the fuel at altitudes above 1400 meters (four,600′). The HAK may not exist necessary for y'all if you are simply driving through the mountains. Nevertheless, the heater combustion sleeping accommodation may soot up and cease working for prolonged apply at distance. If you are delivering the same amount of fuel with reduced oxygen, you lot'll become incomplete combustion (and foul upwards your heater innards).
If yous alive at altitude, or plan on long route trips in the mountains, the HAK is a practiced idea. I don't accept enough experience with the HAK in employ to be an expert. I read a report from someone in Breckenridge, Colorado (8,900′ pinnacle), that his brand new D2 stopped working within two weeks without the HAK (due to soot buildup).
The altitude sensor needs to be installed in an open up location where it tin sense changes in barometric pressure and change fuel delivery to recoup for reduced oxygen. Don't bury information technology inside a wall or chiffonier.
The HAK is very easy to install with the Piece of cake Start Select controller, merely more circuitous with the 801 controller.
In social club to make the HAK work with the 801 controller, you need to wire in a toggle switch. The distance sensor AND the fault code reader both utilize the blue/white diagnostic wire. They can non both exist operational at the same time. In other words, you tin can accept the altitude sensor functioning, OR be able to read the fault codes in the event of a heater failure. I plan to leave the switch in the altitude setting unless I have heater bug.
To brand the 801 Controller compatible with the altitude kit, you'll need to wire in a switch that goes Either through the HAK, or bypasses the HAK and goes direct to the 801 controller. You'll demand to use an SPDT (unmarried pole double throw switch). Sounds complicated, merely is pretty straightforward once you lot stare at the wires for a couple hours and swear a few times. There are a number of cheap switch options bachelor, simply the right search term is "SPDT on on switch"
Beneath are some pics of how I approached the wiring. Yous can read more than well-nigh the HAK installation in this thread from the Sprinter Forum.
Starting the heater for the first time
The last role of the installation is to insert the fuses and power up the heater. Yous may demand to run a few cycles with the heater for it to pump diesel fuel fuel from the tank all the style to the heater.
During my initial startup, I turned the heater on, and then slid under the van to watch the fuel line. Click, click, click, click goes the fuel pump. Within a few seconds I began to see a mix of diesel fuel and air bubbles moving through the fuel line! The pump will run for a while until the heater shuts down for lack of fuel. I've read that 2-3 shutdown cycles are normal during the initial run. The fuel pump needs to purge all the air from the fuel line.
When my heater shut downward afterwards the first attempt, I pulled the fuses, waited a few seconds, reinserted the fuses, and fired up the heater again. Click, click, click… I watched the fuel line about where it entered the heater and and so went upwardly top. The fan was moving slowly blowing cold air. Then the air began to warm upwards and the fan speed ramped up till information technology equally and then hot that I couldn't agree my hands in forepart of the vent! Success!
During the initial startup, I had a bit of fume and called-for odour coming out of the heater and exhaust as the heater burned off manufacturing oils. Inside v minutes the wispy smoke was gone. Inside 20 minutes the burning olfactory property was gone.
Final notes
The heater has been in for a few weeks at present, and I still smiling every fourth dimension I turn it on. Really looking forward to expanding our range of trips. The vent is then hot on it's max setting that my lovely girlfriend tin can employ it to dry her pilus!
I've read the the auxiliary fuel tap on the 2007+ Sprinters will only pump to nigh 1/4 tank. I've also read that if yous are below 1/2 tank, and parked on a hill, the auxiliary fuel tap may not work and the heater will shut down (or not start). Go on those tidbits in mind if camping in cold weather condition.
Lastly, the heater uses the near power during initial startup when the glow plug is heating. After the glow plug does its matter, the ability consumption chop-chop levels off.
I'thou no good on diesel fuel heaters. I merely know what I researched for my installation and my own feel of installation. My goal with this nearly 4000 word post (and well over 100 pics) is to assistance others with their own installations and answer some of the questions that I spent hours researching. Hopefully information technology helps.
I'grand a visual learner. If I tin see it, I tin can (probably) do information technology. Photos and tidbits are immensely helpful for me, fifty-fifty if I take a slightly different path on installation.
Comments and Feedback are welcome. I may not be able to answer technical questions though.
Source: https://radvanadventures.com/2017/02/12/espar-heater-installation-diy-guide/
0 Response to "Espar Easy Star Timer C to F"
Post a Comment